Nähtipps für Wolle/Seide und andere Wollstoffe

Sewing tips for wool/silk and other wool fabrics

In the meantime there are countless great tips for processing my fabrics in the Facebook group, and so that this valuable knowledge is not lost, I have collected the most important ones here.


    1. prewash
      Since fabrics can always shrink a bit in the wash, I recommend pre-washing the fabrics (especially the cuffs) before sewing them in the same way they are to be washed later as finished garments. This is also particularly important because every washing machine washes slightly differently.

    2. cutting
      Since wool fibers stretch more than cotton, it is recommended that garments that should fit close to the body should be cut about one size smaller than cotton jersey, depending on the stature of the person to be sewn(!). The cut is particularly successful if you run a sharp rotary cutter around the pattern, as this minimizes the risk of the fabric being stretched unintentionally. Replacement blades for rotary cutters are available here: https://www.danischpur.de/zubehoer/naehzubehoer/rollschneider-ersatzklingen-von-prym-45mm

    3. side of the fabric when cutting
      Wool jersey and wool-silk jersey are actually interlock fabrics and therefore have no designated right or wrong side (in particular, they don't roll up annoyingly at the edge). This is particularly practical for non-printed fabrics, as it allows you to cut to size in a very space-saving manner. Our special tip: pieces of fabric that according to the pattern can be cut out in a double layer of fabric should only be cut out individually. Especially with sleeves you save a lot of fabric. Just make sure that the grain is still taken into account, because the stretchability is only given in one direction.

    4. needles
      Be sure to choose Super Stretch needles ( https://www.danischpur.de/zubehoer/naehzubehoer/super-stretch- Nadeln -organ ) as needles, as they do not pierce the fibers, which can cause holes in the fabric, but rather through yours Push rounded tip aside. These needles can also be used when working with the overlock. Using the wrong needle (including jersey needles) is responsible for most of the problems (looping at the bottom, skipping stitches, holes along the seams) when sewing high-stretch fabrics. Regular replacement of needles is recommended in order to always obtain ideal sewing results.

    5. yarn selection
      In principle, any yarn that your machine can handle is suitable. Unfortunately, we have not had good experiences with organic cotton threads, as they tear quickly in many machines when sewing, so we have very tear-resistant polyester sewing threads in our range that match the color of our fabrics ( https://www.danischpur.de/ accessories/sewing accessories/sewing thread ).

    6. machine choice
      Wool-silk and wool jersey can be processed very well both with the overlock and with a normal sewing machine. When sewing with the sewing machine, a stretchy stitch such as a zigzag stitch or a fake overlock stitch should be chosen, otherwise the seams in the very stretchy fabric would tear under stress. This is especially true for topstitching - again, we don't recommend using a straight stitch or a twin seam, which can easily tear with use, but a stretchable stitch.

    7. Processing with the sewing machine
      If the sewing machine has an adjustable presser foot pressure, it is advisable to reduce it. This puts less pressure on the fabric and reduces puckering as you sew. If the sewing machine does not have an adjustable presser foot pressure, a walking foot can be used. This ensures that the fabric is transported evenly at the top and bottom. In order to be able to assess whether the sewing foot pressure has been reduced enough or how sewing with a top feed foot feels, it is advisable to make a few test stitches on a leftover piece beforehand.

    8. Processing with the overlock
      If the jersey is sewn with the overlock and the seams become wavy, it helps if the differential feed is increased. The differential feed controls how fast the fabric is fed with the front and rear feeds of the serger and can thus prevent cockling when sewing.

    9. Iron
      Wool-silk can be easily ironed with the wool setting on the iron, both with steam and without. The fabric may change color slightly, but this will disappear after a few minutes and does not mean that something has happened to the fabric. In particular, the attachment of iron-on transfers is also possible. Pay attention to temperature and length when ironing.

    10. Sew
      Be sure to just guide the fabric, never pull on it! When the fabric is pulled, waves form in the seam. When starting with the sewing machine, do not start too close to the edge, otherwise the fabric may be eaten into the machine. It can help to hold the two thread ends of the upper and lower threads and gently pull them until the fabric runs properly under the sewing foot. And – most importantly – SEW SLOWLY.

    11. Sew in thicker areas
      It can get tricky if, for example, you have to sew over many layers of fabric at once when sewing on a cuff in one place. Then the fabric is not fed evenly and the machine sews "on the spot". Here - and ONLY here - it can be helpful to pull the fabric very gently and help the feed dog to overcome this small obstacle. Then stop moving immediately! Alternatively, it can also help to raise the sewing foot slightly and sew a few stitches with the handwheel until the obstacle is overcome.

    12. topstitch
      If you want to topstitch a cross seam that will later be subject to stress when pulled, you should choose a stretchable stitch. Otherwise, with the straight stitch, the sewing mechanism will no longer be stretchable at this point, which would lead to the seam tearing quickly.

    13. clean up
      If you sew with a stretchable stitch such as the zigzag stitch or fake overlock stitch, the seam edge is then finished directly. The same applies, of course, when you sew with the overlock. Overcasting is recommended for wool jersey or wool-silk, otherwise runs could occur. Trimming is not necessary with the snuggly walk, it can also be processed with an open edge. The Pommernwalk, on the other hand, needs to be cleaned up.

    14. hemming
      For hems, the following procedure has proven very effective in the group: if an overlock is available, the fabric edge is trimmed with the overlock, then folded over and ironed. At least 2 cm should be folded over, otherwise the hem will fold outwards when the garment is worn. Now you feel where the edge of the fabric is and hemmed from the right with a stretchy stitch (a triple zigzag stitch or a stretchy decorative stitch also looks pretty). Stitching on top of the overcast minimizes the risk of over-stretching the fabric. Alternatively, it is also possible to place embroidery fleece ( https://www.danischpur.de/zubehoer/naehzubehoer/stickvlies ) under the seam, this also prevents the fabric from stretching when sewing and thus the formation of waves. Place the embroidery stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric, as residues are likely to remain in the seam even after it has been torn out.

    15. waving
      If waves have formed, it helps to steam off the wavy seams with an iron at the end. To do this, set the iron to wool and also activate the steam function. Now hold the iron just above the fabric and steam on the seam, then press briefly.

    16. applications
      In the case of appliqués, we recommend placing embroidery fleece ( https://www.danischpur.de/zubehoer/naehzubehoer/stickvlies ) under the fabric due to the high elasticity of the fabric. Here, too, place the embroidery stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric, as residues will probably remain in the seam after tearing. You can find mini pieces of fabric for appliqué here: https://www.danischpur.de/zubehoer/naehzubehoer/minireste-zum-stopper-oder-apappieren

    17. snaps
      In the case of snap fasteners, the fabric should be reinforced beforehand, otherwise the stress caused by opening the snap fasteners will cause holes in the delicate fabric and run stitches as a result. To do this, either iron or sew on some interfacing underneath, or reinforce the fabric with a bit of Walk. We have had particularly good experiences with the 8mm jersey snap fasteners from Prym and have therefore included them in the shop: click. Closing without snaps is also recommended for bodysuits, as described here: https://www.danischpur.de/blog/body-ohne-druckknoepfe

    18. walk
      Walk, when overlocked, becomes very bulgy at the seams because the fabric is so thick. Processing with the sewing machine is recommended here, but the fabric edge should be trimmed beforehand with the Pomeranian walk. The cuddly walk does not fray and therefore does not have to be trimmed. Since the Pomeranian walk is not stretchy anyway, it looks particularly pretty when it is sewn with a straight stitch and then one side of the seam allowance is folded in one direction and topstitched and the other side in the other direction and also topstitched. The cuddly walk also looks particularly pretty when it is used open-edged. Alternatively, it can also be edged with wool weft .

    19. cuffs
      Wool fibers are stretchier than cotton fibers. Therefore, the wool cuffs and the wool-silk cuffs are stretchier than most cotton cuffs. We recommend a maximum factor of 0.6 when sewing. Some even prefer to sew with a factor of 0.5. In general, wool jersey and wool-silk fabrics are also well suited as cuffs, as both fabrics are very stretchy. However, we still recommend pulling in a rubber band when using it as a belly cuff.

    20. Wool fleece does not need to be trimmed and can also be left raw-edged. Here, too, a finish with a wool weft is possible, which looks very chic with the wool fleece blankets you love so much, for example.

    21. Wool terry cloth lints a little when you cut it - an open-edged finish is not advisable here, as the edge will eventually look ugly. However, it is not necessary to clean up before sewing. In general, wool terry can be sewn with the same tips as wool/silk, but it does not necessarily have to be sewn one size smaller, as the fabric is not quite as stretchy as WS.

    22. Forming tape - we also have forming tape in the shop, which can be sewn into the seams that are particularly exposed to stretching, such as the shoulder arm seam or the neckline seam. To do this, we briefly iron the shaping band to the (e.g.) neckline before the neck cuff is attached. When the neck cuff is sewn on, the shaping tape then disappears into the seam and ensures stabilization of the fabric and prevents long-term lending.


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